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Fashion wants to act for the environment, but without constraints

Thirty major textile groups, one among the foremost polluting industries within the world, launched Friday, upstream of the G7, a coalition to scale back their environmental impact supported volunteering, and greeted with skepticism by NGOs.

Pesticides to supply cotton, chemicals to dye textiles, CO2 to move clothing over thousands of kilometers, plastic microfibers emitted during the washing of synthetic textiles and which land within the oceans ... the world of fashion is that the source of the many pollutions.

It is liable for 20% of wastewater discharges and 10% of CO2 emissions worldwide.

The Elysée commissioned the billionaire François-Henri Pinault, who heads the Kering group (Gucci), in May to mobilize the style and luxury industry, which weighs 1.500 billion euros in annual turnover.

Three months later, a "fashion pact" is going to be unveiled on Friday afternoon. it's signed by Adidas, Capri Holdings (Versace ...), Carrefour, Chanel, H&M, Gap, Inditex (Zara ...), Kering, Nike, Prada, Puma, Stella McCartney ... Monday, it'll be presented by François-Henri Pinault during the G7 in Biarritz.

It is not the primary initiative of its kind. At COP24 in Poland in 2018, 43 companies committed to reducing their greenhouse emission emissions by 30% by 2030.

In this new charter, the signatories undertake "to direct (the) companies towards actions compatible with the trajectory at 1.5 ° C of worldwide warming, via a + just transition + to succeed in zero net emission of CO2 in 2050".

The text identifies three fields of action, to "mitigate global climate change and adapt to it", "reverse the curve of biodiversity loss within 10 years" and protect the oceans, with rarely quantified objectives: 100% of renewable energies by 2030 "on the entire supply chain" or "eliminate single-use plastic in 2030".

The charter doesn't detail the actions to be administered because "each group has its specificities", explains Kering. a gathering is planned for October "to enter more detail on the way to work together" and therefore the priority actions. The groups "will report annually," says Kering.

- Produce less -

What will happen if companies don't fulfill their commitments? The Ministry of Ecological Transition is relying on "influencers on social networks, NGOs very vigilant about the possible discrepancy between speeches and acts" to push them to play the sport, "the effects on their reputation might be violent "otherwise.

Relocating the assembly of clothing closer to consumers is "not on the agenda" of this pact, says Kering. Nor a questioning of "fast fashion" and therefore the multiplication of collections, yet criticized for its impact on the environment.

                                                          
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"There was a doubling between 2000 and 2014 within the consumption of clothing worldwide," says Pierre Cannet, of WWF France. The trend should continue with "a craze for fast fashion" in Asia, notes insurer Coface and an explosion within the use of synthetic fibers.

"If it's an issue of selling ever more by putting renewable energies, which will not be enough", warns Pierre Cannet. "We need to review the model, reduce production, make clothes usable for extended, which not emit micro-plastics once we wash them and produce sustainably."

Recycling is mentioned within the charter. Companies like H&M have launched recycling operations, but there are still significant technological and economic obstacles to the reprocessing of textiles and therefore the share of recycled materials remains negligible.

Rather than counting on the goodwill of companies, it's up to the States to act, judge Clément Sénéchal of Greenpeace: "we need legislation to push to scale back the consumption of clothing".